Serumpun Sarawak

The culinary platform

French Borneo — a conversation between two complete traditions

Not a fusion. A synthesis of contemporary French rigour, brought to life through Modernist techniques, with the living indigenous knowledge of Borneo's communities — the culinary platform at the heart of the movement.

A platform, not a style

French Borneo is the culinary platform at the heart of Serumpun Sarawak — a synthesis of contemporary French rigour, brought to life through Modernist techniques, with the living indigenous knowledge of Borneo’s thirty-four communities. The research that underpins the cuisine is conducted with Professor Gerard Bodeker, drawing on the archival material of the Borneo Cultural Museum and on the Sarawak Biodiversity Centre as a source of research and knowledge on indigenous flora.

It is a working framework rather than a fashionable label. Not a fusion in the marketing sense, where the term has come to mean a kitchen that cannot decide what it is. A conversation between two complete traditions, where each retains its standing, and each lends what the other lacks.


The French framework — rigour as the architecture

The French half of the platform supplies architecture — the disciplines of foundation-built sauce, the construction of pastry by ratio, the brigade structure carried into service, the working language of a menu held to its standard. Without these disciplines, the cultural depth has nowhere to land.

The framework provides a recognisable structure within which the Bornean ingredients and indigenous techniques can be properly heard, on stages where they would otherwise be unfamiliar to the audiences encountering them.

The Republic of France’s recognition of this discipline came in two Chevalier honours — the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne (2019) and the Ordre du Mérite Agricole (2024). Both honours acknowledge the working frame the platform proceeds from. They do not validate the synthesis; they validate the rigour the synthesis stands on.


The Borneo source — soul as the ground

The Borneo half supplies what no foreign technique can: the indigenous knowledge of ingredients carried across centuries, the medicinal understanding of edible flora, the cultural memory held in the ways food is grown, gathered, prepared, and shared across thirty-four communities whose food cultures have evolved in singular adaptation to the rainforest’s biodiversity.

This is the soul the French framework was always missing — and the source from which the platform’s distinct voice emerges.

Bornean ingredients are not dropped into French dishes for novelty. They are sourced through relationships of trust, governed by reciprocity and consent, with the cultural and medicinal context that gives them their meaning preserved as part of the cooking. A leaf gathered from a longhouse garden carries the cultural authority of the elder who taught its use. A seed documented under the platform’s protocols arrives at the table with its provenance attached. Borneo is what gives the French framework something worth carrying.


Not fusion — two complete traditions in conversation, each keeping its identity

Fusion, in the kitchens that have given the term its commercial weight, often means a blend that compromises both originals — French technique softened to accommodate, indigenous ingredients flattened to fit. French Borneo refuses that compromise.

The French rigour is held at full strength, because anything less would dishonour the discipline. The Borneo voice is held at full strength, because anything less would dishonour the communities the platform serves. The two are placed in conversation rather than in compromise.

In a French Borneo dish, the technique that constructs the plate is recognisably French. The ingredients that fill it are recognisably Bornean. The pairing is the proposition: that two complete traditions, properly held, produce something neither could produce alone.


On the world stage — French Borneo at Expo 2025 Osaka

In August 2025, French Borneo Cuisine — referenced in the Expo programme as Borneo French Cuisine — was presented at Seaside Studio CASO in Osaka, in conjunction with Sarawak Week at World Expo Osaka.

Each course was conceived as an act of culinary science, the medicinal properties of Bornean ingredients preserved and amplified through Modernist technique. Professor Gerard Bodeker, the platform’s scientific advisor, narrated the medicinal significance of each dish — placing the indigenous science underpinning every course on a clear scientific footing rather than presenting it as picturesque heritage.

The Expo presentation was the platform’s largest international stage and the test that the synthesis was ready for. The two complete traditions held in conversation; the French framework lifting the Bornean voice without diminishing it; the scientific authority of Professor Bodeker giving the medicinal claims their proper weight. The platform passed the stage. Expo Osaka stands now as the public proof that French Borneo is a working culinary platform, not a marketing premise.


What the platform is for

French Borneo is the cuisine the work serves. It is the cuisine I cook at home in Sarawak and on the international stages where Serumpun Sarawak appears. It is the proof that contemporary French training and indigenous Bornean knowledge can sit at one table without either being diminished — and the operating framework of every plate that bears my hand.

The cuisine is the proof of the philosophy. The philosophy is the proof of the discipline. The discipline is what allows the cuisine to honour the communities, the ingredients, the maisons whose work the cuisine runs alongside, and the diner seated at the table.

The French framework provides rigour. Borneo provides soul. The conversation between them is the cuisine.

The French framework provides rigour. Borneo provides soul. The conversation between them is the cuisine.

James Won

Selected Press

  • Lifestyle Asia (KL) Review: Shin'Labo by James Won marries Japanese cuisine with French cooking, elevated through local ingredients 14 April 2022
  • FirstClasse Shin'Labo by James Won 20 April 2022
  • Prestige Online (Malaysia) Review: Shin'Labo by James Won — Japanese-French Cuisine 21 April 2022
  • Robb Report Malaysia Shin'Labo Explores Japanese Yoshoku Cuisine With French Techniques and Malaysian Ingredients 23 April 2022
  • Thailand Daily Shin'Labo by James Won Explores Japanese Yoshoku Cuisine 27 April 2022
  • Vinprovning Japanese Meets French Cuisine, Enhanced With Local Ingredients 1 April 2022
  • Café Aberto Japanese Meets French Cuisine, Elevated With Local Ingredients 1 May 2022

The two are placed in conversation rather than in compromise. Each retains its standing. Each lends what the other lacks.

Try Krug Chef's Table, Mortlach, Locally Sauced, Mérite Agricole, Ryoutei, or Serumpun Osaka.