Collaborations
James Won and the Veuve Clicquot Maison representative at Brasserie Enfin, late May 2015 — the orange Veuve Clicquot Reims France logo wall behind, bottles and orange flutes shelved alongside.
Veuve Clicquot — Reims, France
Champagne · 26–27 May 2015 · Brasserie Enfin

The First Veuve Clicquot Pairing

At Brasserie Enfin in late May 2015 — the Brut and the Vintage 2008 against my Lyonnaise-Malaysian table.

Veuve Clicquot · Reims, France Brasserie Enfin · Oasis Square, Petaling Jaya 26–27 May 2015 · the first partnership Brut and Vintage 2008 Lyonnaise-Malaysian table

Veuve Clicquot came to my table in late May 2015, at Brasserie Enfin. Two evenings, the Brut and the Vintage 2008, paired course by course against the bistro work I was already cooking. No press release, no formal launch. A quiet pairing — the Maison's preference, and mine.

Two evenings at Brasserie Enfin, late May 2015. The Brut at the start of the table, the Vintage 2008 through the main and the close. I cooked the bistro work I was already cooking; the Maison’s expressions sat at the centre of each course, never at the side.

The room was a year into the Krug Ambassade work by then, and would carry the Hennessy 250 launch through the early summer that followed. Veuve Clicquot was its own evening, held at its own pace.

Veuve Clicquot Brut bottle with champagne flute, alongside a small chocolate dome dessert and an arancini-like savoury course in cone form, white roses behind.
The first pairing — the Brut at the table, with the bistro work I held to.
Photograph: Brasserie Enfin archive.

The pour

The Brut sat with the entrées — the lighter end of the table, where the cuisine asks for a pour that lifts rather than weighs. The Vintage 2008 carried the main and the closing course, where age and depth had a plate to meet. Two pours, four moments, one continuous evening. That was the architecture the Maison and I agreed on.

Brasserie Enfin pre-service moment for the Veuve Clicquot pairing — second frame of the room.
Pre-service — the Maison expected, the room ready.
Photograph: Brasserie Enfin archive.

The table

Four courses across the two pours. The plates below carry the record.

Veuve Clicquot pairing entrée — first course paired with the Brut
Entrée one — paired with the Brut.
Veuve Clicquot pairing entrée two — second course paired with the Brut
Entrée two — the Brut still at the table.
Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008 main course pairing — plated against the bottle on Veuve Clicquot orange placemat
Main against the Vintage 2008 — the cellar piece of the evening.
Veuve Clicquot pairing dessert — closing course of the May 2015 evening
Dessert — closing the Veuve Clicquot table.

What it left

The Veuve Clicquot evenings did not announce themselves. They did the work, and the photographs in the Brasserie Enfin archive carry the record.

I was glad they came.

Two evenings, two expressions, a kitchen ready to listen.

On the Veuve Clicquot pairings, May 2015

Selected Press

Full archive →
  • Brasserie Enfin archive Veuve Clicquot pairing dinner — late May 2015 Photographs by the Brasserie Enfin team 26 May 2015

*I was glad to host Veuve Clicquot at Brasserie Enfin. The evenings were quiet, the pours were generous, and the work continued the next morning as it had the morning before.*

Try Krug Chef's Table, Mortlach, Locally Sauced, Mérite Agricole, Ryoutei, or Serumpun Osaka.